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The best part of being in the natural hair community is the freedom you see in the styling. Curls can be long, short, tight, or loose. They can be ultra-defined or sport a little care-free frizz. Regardless of what your personal preference is, there’s a style out there for you.
Whether it’s a dramatic undercut or a mohawk-inspired style, natural hair looks amazing in a variety of tapered cuts. "Women with natural hair have many options," says hair stylist Alicia Bailey. This includes the cropped looks you’ll find on Instagram that prove blunt and uniform haircuts simply won’t do for textures that don’t want to be tamed. We spoke with Bailey and stylist Andrea Dent, of Florida's Mahogany Natural Hair Salon and Spa, for more on tapered styles.
Meet the Expert
• Alicia Bailey is a hair stylist and the director of education at hair care brand Design Essentials.
• Andrea Dent is a hair stylist with Mahogany Natural Hair Salon and Spa, with locations in West Palm Beach and Lake Worth, Florida.
Here are a few of our favorite tapered cuts for natural hair,
Blonde Fro-Hawk
Don’t want to part with your length, but still want to make a bold statement? Ask your hairdresser for a conservative fro-hawk that tapers your sides oh-so-slightly. "I love to see women wearing a fro-hawk," says Bailey. "The fro-hawk is a bold style that can be worn in many ways. Since the hair is usually faded, tapered, or close on the sides, all of the drama is usually in the top or along the middle of the head."
This smooth transition creates a shape that directs a viewer’s eye up to your longer, textured, locks and beautiful face. Opting for an icy blonde color is another way to make this hairstyle pop.
Artsy Two Tone
"Tapered cuts are blank canvases that allows clients to be creative and express their style in an almost art-like way," says Dent. "They can choose a cut design that reflects their personality or mood with fresh clean lines, swirls. and even art shaved in. They also have the option of styling it with curls, twists, faux locs, and coils, too." Or, in this case, with dye. Can’t decide between two hair colors? Don’t worry, you don’t have to with this eye-catching hairstyle. From the faded dark sides and intricate shaved-in design to the defined ombré curls that are awash in fuchsia—anyone that chooses this unique style will be a walking piece of art.
More Up-Top
Low-key naturals that are at stage two in their hair journey can join the tapered cut team by keeping their hair shorter at the back of their head. This creates a choppy, medium-sized afro that still maintains definition. To really make the cut stand out, make sure to fluff up the front of your hair and pull a few strands to create cute, wispy curls.
Auburn Waves
Naturalistas who want to enjoy benefits of short hair without having to chop it all off can elevate their look with a teeny weeny afro. The secret to this look? Keep hair short enough to be out of the way, but also long enough to show off your texture. A handy boar bristle brush can be used to lay down baby hairs or create soft waves, while a monthly (or weekly) auburn rinse adds a touch of color. The Mason Pearson Handy Mixture Bristle Hair Brush ($175) is the gold standard.
Bold Frohawk
If daring is your middle name, you’ll love the idea of a colorful frohawk. Ask your stylist to buzz off the sides, create a shape — like a shaved lightning bolt — and hit the bleach bottle for added oomph. Of course, you can go for any color you want, but this vibrant shade packs plenty of personality and complements neutral wardrobes. The real draw here is the shape, which is fun and doesn't take itself too seriously.
Statement Flat-Top
The 90's are back with flat-top fades—but this time, they’re out with a modern twist. No longer will you have to settle for a streamlined cylindrical cut; your natural texture can shine through. You can ask for extra personalization by requesting shaved patterns like zigzags or arrows. "A flat top is for a bold woman—one that turns heads in a room with her confidence," says Dent. "It’s really just a personality thing, think Grace Jones."
For added dimension, shape a flat-top can be with various angles.
Curly Coiffure
If you need a tapered cut that’s easy to manage and can go from a night out at a concert to morning meetings at a corporate office, this style is a fit for you. All you really need is a slight trim to your sides and a hydrated wash-and-go routine. Keeping your temples short while the rest of your hair grows will create a chic high-top that stands out from the crowd.
Ginger Snap
Replace the spikes you see in standard mohawks for stretched out kinks and coils. Just shave down the sides and pick an optional design. If your hair needs assistance in the texture department, you can opt for a braid-out to give you that tousled look. Last but not least, tie in a ginger hue for an alternative vibe.
Peekaboo Cut
Delight onlookers with a hidden undercut design. Opting for a symmetrical pattern like a lotus flower or an evil eye is a visually stunning way to spruce up your style. Simply pull your hair up to reveal your tapered tresses.
Ask your stylist to add detail to your undercut via a shock of color, or a design made in braids or twists (think Sengalese twists dyed in a range of purple hues). These unexpected details can freshen up casually styled hair.
Icy Trail
If you wish to say goodbye to long hair and hello to a vibrant fashion color, this clean fade is right for you. You’ll have to request a close shave so the deep side can steal the show, then add in the icy, gunmetal blue and you’re ready to go.
Dip-Dye Fro
You’ve probably seen your fill of fro-hawks, but this dip-dyed style is anything but repetitive. Simply shave your sides and create a large "Z" pattern for a fun view. When you’re ready to go out, toss your hair upfront and pin or tie it in place to show off your lightened curly ends.
"When wearing a wash and go with the fro-hawk, activate your curls with your favorite styling product and allow the hair to dry," advises Bailey. "When the hair is completely dry, use a pick to lift the roots ensuring the curls are not disturbed. Add a little holding spray to the root area while diffusing the hair and lifting at the same time to create volume."
When wearing a fro or fro-hawk, don’t forget to fluff for extra volume. For even more oomph, use an alcohol-free mousse, which will lift and volumize roots (and works especially well for fine hair).
Conventionally Cut
Not looking to get close to your hairdresser’s clippers? No problem. This long, layered pixie hair cut may be right up your alley. It’s a conventional and timeless style that looks great with curly textures and highlights the face beautifully. Moreover, this cut is an excellent choice for naturals who have fine hair and desire more volume.
Asymmetrical Buzzcut
Remember when Cassie sported her iconic asymmetrical buzzcut? You can mimic that punky style by shaving off one side of your hair. The look can be enhanced further by implementing box braids as a protective style.
Finger Curled Frohawk
Have you ever seen a mohawk with springy finger curls? Just snag your favorite defining gel and get to twisting. If you want the texture to really pop, go for a lighter hair color, like strawberry blonde. "How the fro-hawk is worn is totally up to the individual," says Bailey. "I wear a fro-hawk and find myself changing it up, depending upon the occasion and my mood. The fro-hawk can be worn away from the face, toward the face, or towards the left or right side. For drama, the bigger, the better."