We all know that retinol is the gold standard anti-aging ingredient. It’s the show-off we can’t get enough of—it smooths lines and texture, prevent zits, and fades pigmentation. Essentially, it tricks your skin into acting young again. But, like so many show-offs, it’s not for everyone and some people can find it irritating. Retinol can cause sensitivity, redness, and peeling, and for those with sensitive skin, these side effects can sometimes be unbearable. And with retinol, it only works if you can use it consistently.
This Ingredient Makes Retinol Bearable
That’s why more and more formulators are factoring niacinamide (a form of Vitamin B3) into their retinol products, like Dr. Sam Bunting, who added it to her new Flawless Nightly Serum, that contains both retinol and niacinamide.
“Niacinamide has two helpful actions: it boosts ceramide production, an essential component of the epidermis’ bricks and mortar structure, which makes skin more robust and tolerant of irritants,” she explains. “It also has an anti-inflammatory action, which helps minimize the impact of starting a retinoid, which can trigger the release of inflammatory mediators in the skin.”
If your skin is strong and healthy, this means that while the retinol-induced peeling (a good sign it's working) will still happen, it won’t come with the downside of irritation.
4 More Retinol Hacks for Sensitive Skin
Prep Your Skin: While you can buffer your retinol application with a layer of niacinamide-rich moisturizer, if your skin is seriously sensitive, you should spend some time before even reaching for the retinol to prep your complexion. “The use of both ceramides and niacinamide topically can help prep skin for retinoid use,” notes Dr. Bunting. “The other things to consider are stripping out all irritants to create space for the retinoid—so avoid foaming cleansers, skip acid toners and minimize exfoliant use.”
Start Slow and Steady: For sensitive skin, the key is to go easy your retinol application, “I tend to start anyone with sensitive skin on a slow and steady program," she says. "I quantify the amount of product to be used, so always start small with a pea-sized amount and use the 13 Dot Technique to ensure even distribution."
Layer up! “I also advise that you buffer your retinol by using a moisturizer first,” says Dr. Bunting. “Start using retinol every other night and think of building up over the course of weeks, not months."
Stop and Re-prep: You’ll know you’re going too hard with your retinol applications if your skin becomes red, dry and flaky. "You’ll also notice other products will sting," she adds. "This indicates it’s time to stop, repair your barrier and restart only once things normalize at a lower intensity."
Below, you can watch Dr Sam Bunting’s video about retinoids for more insights. Then, keep scrolling because you’ll find our edit of the best niacinamide and retinol combos, plus some niacinamide products in case you already have retinol and need niacinamide to soothe your skin.
Dr Sam Bunting has formulated her night serum with retinol, bakuchiol, redness-relieving azelaic acid and calming niacinamide. It's a great all-rounder.
Formulated for sensitive skin, this contains a hefty dose of niacinamide, plus the slower-converting retinyl retinoate, which has been found to be more suitable for sensitive skin.
Prefer serums or on a budget? This serum contains a cocktail of soothing ingredients like aloe vera, vitamin E, jojoba oil and hyaluronic acid alongside the niacinamide and retinol.
Designed for blemish-prone skin (niacinamide can prevent zits, while zinc controls sebum), this will also help strengthen your skin pre-retinol use, or you can apply it as a protective layer before your retinol.
Another niacinamide and zinc combo, this lightweight serum is great for tackling unwanted retinol-induced redness.
Add this booster to your daily moisturizer to strengthen your sensitive skin before using retinol, or cocktail it with your retinol to help your complexion to cope.