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Naturalistas and protective style enthusiasts can rejoice now that there’s a new hairstyle shaking up the game. We’re talking about passion twists—the coily and carefree love child born from the union of goddess locs and Senegalese twists. Don’t know what I’m talking about? Scroll through your favorite Black hair blogger’s Instagram page or peek into your local hair braiding shop—there’s no way you can miss them since the style totally fits the trending boho look that doesn’t seem to be going away anytime soon.
What Are Passion Twists?
Passion twists were created by the talented Miami-based hairstylist Kailyn Rogers. Online she is known as The Boho Babe, and the name is appropriate for someone who developed a look that’s so artsy and offbeat. Rogers invented the style for her clients that wanted a natural and easy-to-maintain hairdo while also radiating high levels of glam.
“I was thinking and meditating on how I could create a style like this and one day God just brought it to me and I immediately got up and went to the hair store,” Rogers said in an interview. “I got the hair that I thought I could use to create the style and did it on myself. I didn’t know how it was going to turn out or anything, I just did it, and it worked on the first try.”
By January 2018, she debuted Passion Twists on Instagram for the world to see and its popularity quickly soared. With demand so high and her inbox overflowing, Rogers shared a tutorial on YouTube that gave a quick rundown on how the style is achieved. Of course, the video went viral and sparked a life of its own. Now you’ll find well over 95,000 #passiontwists results on Instagram alone.
Passion Twists vs. Locs vs. Spring Twists
If at first glance you don’t think passion twists are special or new, fans of the style say au contraire. In the comment section of Rogers’ YouTube video, a viewer wrote, “To me, spring twists look too springy, faux locs look too faux. This is.....Yay!!!!” Another viewer expressed her appreciation for the creativity Passion Twists brings to the Black hair world, “Very pretty. Love protective styles, but I was tired of seeing the same old styles.”
The secret sauce to Passion Twists is the tie-in of Freetress Water Wave braiding hair. These bundles offer a curly texture with a silky feel. When installed, your twists will have an almost unraveled appearance that you’d never find in the neat and ultra-tight look of Senegalese or Marley Twists.
How Are Passion Twists Installed?
Passion twists are installed the same way other two-strands twists are done. But for the uninitiated, you start off with washed, moisturized and stretched dry hair. You can attempt this style on your natural texture as well, though, you may experience difficulty depending on how curly or kinky your own hair is. The choice is ultimately up to you.
Next, you’ll want to section out your hair and work with smaller segments for your desired look. You can make your passion twists thin or chunky or even mix up sizes if you’re looking to create something unique. For each segment, you will have to prepare your braiding hair with an X-shaped partition. The actual segment itself needs to be divided in half before you proceed. When you’re ready, apply a dab of edge control gel on your fingertips and wrap the braiding hair where your real hair meets your scalp. The braiding hair you arranged in a cross earlier must be twisted in with the halves of your real hair—this will provide the tension you need to lock the braiding at the root and avoid slipping.
“It just requires more twisting and more pulling," Rogers says to newbies who are trying to recreate the style. Once the faux hair is securely in place, follow up by re-sectioning the joint hair into two strands and twisting them together with enough force that allows them to entangle while also maintaining a semi-curly form. The end result should give you an S-shaped twist. You get to determine how loose or uniform you want your twist to be.
Repeat these steps for each subsequent twist you work with. According to Rogers, about seven packs of braiding hair will supply average density. For larger than life twists, you can use up to 10 bundles. When it’s all installed throughout, you’ll be greeted with a head full of gorgeous bohemian-styled passion twists looking back at you in the mirror.
How Long Do Passion Twists Last?
When your passion twists are completed, you can ensure their longevity with a holding mousse. Rogers opts for the Bronner Brothers Foam Moisturizing Wrapping Lotion ($4) to finish her passion twists, which adds moisture, bounce, shine, and body.
As the creator of Passion Twists, Rogers says the style can last up to two months. Though, a touchup can help extend wear for a few weeks. Like other twisted styles, smaller twists last longer and provide both volume and fullness. For your real hair’s health, make sure your Passion Twists aren’t installed too long. Tanya Pebbles of East Coast Styles advises you not to keep your protective style in beyond 12 weeks.
When it comes to liquids, Rogers says Passion Twists are water-friendly. So, you don’t have to worry if you want to go for a swim, get caught in the rain, or just want to wash your hair. However, use your own discretion when wetting your twists since you don’t want them to begin to unravel.
What Is the Upkeep?
Regardless of whether it’s summer or winter, passion twists are a great choice for protecting your hair. Since it's tucked away in the faux tresses, there isn’t much need for upkeep. Even better, you’ll be able to retain length and additional growth with the duration of your style.
Using a spray-on conditioner is probably the easiest way to lock in moisture. The Farewell Frizz Rosarco Milk Leave-In Conditioning Spray ($20) is a lightweight option that nourishes dry hair with rosehip, argan, and coconut oils.
Aside from hydration for minimized breakage, a clean scalp is imperative for a protective style according to natural hair blogger Ashley Hall. The Mizani Scalp Care Calming Scalp Lotion ($20) features a pointed nozzle for easy spreading while its formulated blend of menthol, eucalyptus, aloe vera, and avocado oils reduce buildup and itch.
Last but not least, you’ll only have to make sure you have a sleep regimen for your Passion Twists. Like most other protective styles, you can toss your twists in a high ponytail known as a pineapple and throw on a satin bonnet or scarf. Alternatively, if you’re a wild sleeper, silk pillowcases will be your best friend.