In this day and age, there's pretty much an entire industry devoted to the state and shape of our natural brows. Between serums, pencils, pomades, and powders having uneven or less-than-bushy brow texture isn't much of a problem. (Of course, we wish we naturally had brows à la Lily Collins, but alas, we have to choose our battles). That said, even though our go-to brow products can create a quick antidote to a wax or pluck job gone awry, we'd prefer to wake up and walk out the door without having to concern ourselves with the symmetry of our two sisters.
So, we decided to go to a celebrity brow artist and makeup artist to learn their best tips, tricks, and overall game plan when it comes to fixing an uneven set of eyebrows courtesy of genes, Botox, plucking, or a super-scary wax job. Spoiler: The process is so much less intimidating than we would have guessed, but patience is a virtue.
As wonderful as brow products are, they're truly just a Band-Aid solution for fixing uneven brows. They can help, and we love them for that, but they obviously won't get to the root of your uneven eyebrows—and we mean that literally. So patience and most likely some grow-out time will be necessary.
Meet the Expert
- Joey Healy is an eyebrow specialist and owner of Joey Healy Eyebrow Studio in New York City.
- Carissa Ferreri is a celebrity makeup artist based in Los Angeles.
Below, watch Ferreri's tutorial for filling in uneven brows with makeup and read on for pro tips from brow expert Healy, as well as his exact process and growth- and maintenance-promoting product picks for your brows.
Click Play to Watch MUA Carissa Ferreri's Uneven Brow Tutorial
Let Your Brows Grow
Allow your brows to grow untouched for four to six weeks before you consult a trustworthy brow specialist (Instagram research is recommended!) or embark on the following steps on your own.
Even Things Out
During your brow appointment, Healy says he (or your pro) will assess if your brows are equidistant from the bridge of the nose and if they are level. If not, they'll work from the bottom, up, ensuring the hair underneath is as balanced as the hair on top of the brow.
"Is one higher? Splitting the difference often helps here by carefully tweezing under the low one and making sure nothing comes too high on the high one," says Healy.
Choose Your Length
Now, Healy says a pro will use a mirror to check where the brows end and assess whether or not they end at the same point. "The corner of the nose to the corner of the eye is a good guideline to hit, although you can go a bit further, as long as it doesn't end up in the temple depression," advises Healy. Once at home, and looking to maintain the look, he advises using a brush and scissors to comb the hairs out to ensure they remain symmetrical.
Create the Perfect Arch
Here's where a pro will look at your arch, and aim for one that hits about two-thirds of the way out. Healy says a center arch can make the overall shape look like a triangle (if pointy) or a rainbow (if round).
Now for the maintenance part: Trim, but sparingly! "Often, the length of the existing hairs can prove to be a wonderful asset, allowing you to do a brow comb-over and direct them in a helpful way," Healy tells us. "Clear brow gel is so helpful at this stage."
Fill Between Brow Appointments
Fill while you wait. "I recommend using a pencil for instant gratification, but don't apply it through the entire shape of your brow, just where you need it in the areas that are sparse and being grown out," says Healy. He adds to make sure your pencil pick is the perfect match for your brow color.
Create a Brow Plan
Make a follow-up plan. Healy suggests scheduling monthly appointments with your brow artist and only plucking the most obvious of strays—aka the ones that are in the dead center between your brow and eyelid.
Healy also recommends investing in both a powder and a pencil while growing out uneven brows.
"While a powder can help light brows achieve more depth, pencils are preferable for specifically fixing unevenness," Healy explains. "Pencils allow you to work on perimeter lines and are good for patching up a hole, gap, or scar." He recommends searching for a pencil that has a triangular wedge-shaped edge to gradually and naturally build up the intensity of brows. He suggests using the narrow edge for outlining, the broad side for filling, and a pointed tip for more detailed work.
Strengthen Your Brow Game With Serums
"Brows are constantly growing, resting, and shedding," Healy reminds us. "They are not one static thing that stays the same, but rather more similar to a revolving door of hair. That's how and why effective serums can help in the growth phase." He suggests seeking out products that are rich in peptides and avoiding those with hormones.
Additionally, Healy explains serums can be beneficial when fixing uneven eyebrows, as they can strengthen existing hair, aid in follicular repair, and improve the health of surrounding skin for thicker growth. "They can also increase hair's elasticity, enhance circulation, and improve the hair's ability to retain moisture, which leads to brows with more volume, suppleness, and sheen," he says. "Most serums are applied day and night for six weeks and nightly thereafter, with initial results seen in as little as two to three weeks. Fuller results come around the six-to-eight-week mark. However, many report brows continuing to fill in well after."
According to Healy, try applying your serum every morning on a clean, washed, towel-dried face, and allow at least five to 10 minutes before layering any other brow products or makeup on top. Then, in the evening, apply your serum again just before hitting the sheets.
Be Patient for Your Transformation
"If brows are asymmetrical, I generally advise growing them in untouched for four to six weeks before consulting a professional for an initial reshaping. Fixing uneven brows can take several sessions and depends on clients' ability to grow hair, which can depend on age, ethnicity, etc.," Healy reminds us.
That said, there is light at the end of the tunnel. According to Healy, a full brow transformation is usually attainable by the six-month mark, but depending on how fast your brows grow (and how vigilant you are about not plucking), you might see a full result as soon as two months or as long as one year.
"During this time, self-maintenance should be sparing, and a pro should be in the driver's seat," says Healy. "We often set ourselves back with a quick 'cleanup' session."
How long should you let your brows grow before seeing a specialist?
Allow your brows to grow out for four to six weeks before you consult a trustworthy brow specialist.
Can I clean them up at all during that time?
Yes, but only at a minimum. Feel free to pluck obvious strays (i.e., those in the center of the eyebrows), but try not to touch the others.
Can I trim them, at least?
You really shouldn't, as you could risk cutting them too short. Instead, try grooming with clear brow gel.
How long will it take my brows to completely transform?
If you've severely overplucked them, you should be able to grow them out fully by the six-month mark, at which point you can see a specialist to get them completely groomed.