There are some hairstyles that are as beautiful as they are protective, not to mention so easy to achieve. Cornrow braids fall into this category. If you know the basics of braiding, you're already halfway there when it comes to learning how to cornrow. The difference, though, is that while braids or plaits hang freely from their individual sections, cornrows are braided to the scalp. "Cornrows are beautiful and shows our African heritage using some modern braiding techniques," says celebrity hairstylist Yene Damtew. "They represent freedom and have so much versatility—you can create different design patterns, and when they get old, you can take them out and enjoy a new hairstyle before washing your hair." To learn everything there is to know about cornrows, we consulted with Damtew along with pro hairstylist and braid expert Michelle O'Connor.
Meet the Expert
Keep reading for a step-by-step guide on how to braid cornrows.
Part Hair for Individual Cornrow Section
First, use the tail end of a rattail comb to create whatever size section you want. Skinnier sections will result in smaller cornrows, while larger sections will yield bigger cornrows. Here, a section is parted in front to create a cornrow directed to the side. "There is no one way to part for cornrows," notes O'Connor. "They can be done from the side, backwards to forwards, straight back, braids crossing over other braids, tiny braids beside bigger braids—the patterns available for braiding are endless."
Divide Hair Section into Three Parts for Braiding
At the hairline, divide the first section of hair into three equal parts as you would to begin any braid.
Begin Braiding Small Section
Begin to braid the small section of hair at the hairline. If you're new to braiding cornrows, O'Connor recommends starting with a basic style. "Straight back is the simplest form of cornrows to start with," she says. "After you've mastered it, you can then graduate to patterns, and then on to adding additional hair for extreme lengths."
Add Hair as You Braid
As you continue to braid the hair, add hair from the section you're braiding into the cornrow. This is where a braid turns into a cornrow, and this is what attaches the braid to the scalp. Each time you pick up one of the three pieces of hair to braid, gently pull hair from the parted off section and add it in as you braid. Add an even amount of hair each time for a uniform look.
Continue Braiding and Adding Hair to the Cornrow
Continue to braid the section of hair, adding more hair into the cornrow as you work your way toward the end. "Gradually pick up hair, adding it to the three sections from each side for there to be balance until you complete the style," says Damtew.
Damtew notes that depending on the braider and the style, braiding cornrows can take anywhere from 15 minutes on an easy style to up to four hours on a more intricate style. "Try not to get frustrated. Practice makes perfect and the more you do it, the easier it becomes," she says.
Detangle Sections of Hair
If you're creating cornrows on straightened or relaxed hair, you might not need to detangle as you braid. But natural hair, as pictured, needs to be detangled as you work your way down sections. Simply and gently pull your fingers through the hair to work your way through so that the braids will continue to be neat and uniform. Damtew recommends the Felicia Leatherwood Detangler Brush ($14) for getting rid of knots without breakage.
To really prevent breakage, it may be helpful to have a spray bottle nearby filled with water, a water and leave-in conditioner mixture, or a water and natural oil mixture to help with detangling.
Once you've braided the hair to the scalp, continue braiding if the hair is long. As these braids will not be attached to the head, you can braid them as you would regular braids.
Secure the Ends
To prevent cornrow ends from unraveling, you can curl them around your finger. (This will work better on natural hair.) For hair that's straight and whose ends won't stay together on their own, use snap-free rubber bands or barrettes like these Small Mini Elastics Rubber Hair Bands ($3).
Repeat Around the Head
Repeat the braiding process all the way around the head, making sure to part sections the same size for balance.
This is a simple and basic cornrow style. The parts are straight and the size is uniform. It's an ideal protective style, as it can stay neat for roughly two weeks as long as silk or satin caps or scarves are placed over the hair at nighttime. And, if you're looking to give your hair a break from chemical treatments or heat styling, cornrow braids are a great option.
How to Braid Cornrows with Nigella Miller