Up until college, I had great skin. Aside from an occasional blemish in high school, I never gave my skin much thought. And then, at the stroke of midnight, the night before my freshmen year of college, it’s almost as if my skin (in a ghastly act of mockery) rebelled with the pent-up angst it had apparently been harboring for 18 years. All of a sudden, I was routinely getting angry red pimples on my chin and forehead and had a dusting of small white bumps to accent them. To me, it almost felt like a premeditated attack.
Over the years, my acne has ebbed and flowed. Sometimes my skin is completely clear, and other times I look like a pubescent teen who perpetually forgets to take her makeup off before bed. What’s frustrating is that my skin seems to have a mind of its own. Now, at 24 years old, I’m on top of my skincare routine. I never fall asleep without taking my makeup off. I eat a healthy diet, exercise, drink water—basically everything anyone ever tells you to do to obtain, glowing, healthy, pimple-free skin.
So when my skin (particularly my chin and jawline) hit a record-high low this fall, I found myself ready to throw my hands up in mercy. I was bending over backward to appease a complexion that only seemed satisfied to worsen in retaliation. So what’s a girl to do? Call in the experts, of course. Despite the fact that acne and oily skin are usually associated with the awkward days of puberty, there are so many adult women who experience frustrating bouts of hormonal acne too. (FYI: If you tend to break out along the chin and jawline, hormones are likely the culprit.) So to cover all of my bases, I asked three different experts—an esthetician, nutritionist and makeup artist (MUA) — for their help.
Meet the Expert
- Renee Rouleau is a celebrity esthetician and the founder of Renee Rouleau Skincare, which is based on her unique nine skin type system.
- Tobi Henney is a celebrity makeup artist based in New York City. Her client roster includes the likes of Ashley Graham, Barbara Palvin, Charlotte Lawrence, and more. She previously served as L'Oréal Paris Makeup Director for Australia.
- Kimberly Snyder is a nutritionist and holistic wellness expert, as well as the founder of Solluna. She is a New York Times bestselling author of 5 books, including Radical Beauty, which she co-authored with Deepak Chopra.
The Holistic Nutritionist
When it comes to lifestyle adjustments, nutritionist and holistic wellness expert Kimberly Snyder says to make sleep a priority: "Sleep fights stress and helps your body and hormonal systems function." Additionally, she recommends upping your water intake to flush out toxins, dry brushing, which is great for detoxication, exercising (she loves yoga) to help manage and relieve stress, and staying on top of gut health (which has been linked to acne) by incorporating a quality probiotic.
"Probiotics are a powerful way to further balance one of the most foundational processes in your body—digestion—so that everything else in your body works better. When you re-balance your digestion, your skin begins to glow more."
Diet-wise, Snyder suggests minimizing processed foods (as they can contain chemicals and ingredients that may contribute to acne), dairy, refined sugars and starches (which may affect blood sugar and in turn, hormones), and cooked fats and oils, which might lead to breakouts as they're difficult for the body to digest and process.
Instead, she recommends maximizing zinc intake (think pumpkin seeds, pine nuts, sunflower seeds, and coconut) to promote cell repair and lymphatic waste removal, food forms of vitamin A (arugula, broccoli, spinach, cantaloupe), watercress, which contains vitamins A, B1, B2, C, E, and mustard oil, which acts as an internal antiseptic, in addition to plenty of skin-nourishing omega-3 fatty acids (chia seeds, flaxseeds, walnuts.)
Last, but certainly not least, Snyder stipulates the importance of trying to eat mostly organic produce: "These foods are anti-inflammatory powerhouses that
minimize toxic buildup in your system, fight free radicals, and promote health and well-being."
The Celebrity Skin Guru
For prevention, we turn to celebrity esthetician Renee Rouleau. She recommends finding a high-quality acne serum (preferably non-drying and alcohol-free) containing salicylic acid, which is known for its quick penetration and top-notch ability to clear pores of pesky, acne-causing bacteria.
She notes that while all skin types are different, a salicylic acid serum will pack the most punch. Since you're layering it underneath your nighttime moisturizer, it's able to get deep into the pores and work overnight, unlike, say, a cleanser or mask that's simply rinsed off. Her expert recommendation: Use a quality BHA serum ($54) for three nights and then switch to a Skin Correcting Serum ($47) rich in brightening agents like vitamin B3.
However, if a blemish decides to ignore your preventative measures, the key is to act fast with a treatment plan. "I cannot stress the importance of treating your blemishes correctly once one pops up," she explains. And since treatment can influence how long the pimple (and its scar) will last, she recommends choosing products with ingredients like salicylic acid, lactic acid, licorice, ethyl lactate, and beta-glucan to clear pimples fast. (Her Zit Care Kit, $163, has already worked wonders on my skin.)
The Makeup Artist
Celebrity makeup artist Tobi Henney says your makeup technique will depend on what stage your acne is in. "If it is in the beginning phases and displaying redness, I recommend using a high-quality anti-redness product to calm and neutralize the appearance of the skin," she says.
"IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Redness Neutralizing Correcting Cream ($35) is a great moisturizer to start with." From there, Henney recommends applying a highly pigmented concealer, such as NARS Soft Matte Complete Concealer ($30), to the affected area before ever so lightly layering with a powder. This, she says, will ensure that the concealer stays in place. Her pick: MAC's Mineralize Skinfinish Natural ($37).
However, if the acne is in its final stages (i.e., causing dryness or flakiness), Henney recommends a different strategy. "Try using a super-hydrating moisturizer such as La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream ($190). Then, apply a creamy concealer to cover the acne without drying it out further." For this, she loves Becca's Aqua Luminous Perfecting Concealer ($32). Henney says to finish it off with a translucent setting powder, like Laura Mercier's Translucent Loose Setting Powder ($39).
Avoid using too much powder on top of dry, flaky acne, which will just make it worse. Instead, after using your BeautyBlender to apply several layers of the creamy concealer, top it off with a light dusting of a finely milled powder.
Cleveland Clinic. What does it mean when acne is on certain areas of your face?. Updated June 8, 2020.
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