Not all hair colors are created equal. In fact, some client requests can be just flat out scary for a hairdresser to perform sometimes. Hair color is like math, though. It may not make sense at first, but once you figure out the formula, the answer is always right there in front of you. Below, you'll find some tricky hair color requests decoded, so you know just what to do next time.
Those Stubborn Reds
Achieving a rich, multi-dimensional red is no small order. Goldwell has long been known amongst professional colorists for offering some of the truest and longest lasting red tones. Below, you'll find an amazing color formula that will result in a fiery, rich, multi-dimensional red hair color.
Base: Goldwell Topchic 7K 40mls + 40mls 10-volume peroxide
Formula A (for vibrancy): Topchic 7OR 10 mls + 8GG 10mls + 7KG 10mls + 30mls 20-volume peroxide
Formula B (for depth): Topchic 7KG 10mls + 8GG 10mls + 7KR + 30mls 20-volume peroxide
Formula C (highlights): Topchic 8KG 10mls + 9G 10mls + 20mls 40-volume peroxide
Going from Blonde to Brunette
When your uber-blonde client comes in and asks to be taken down to a brunette, you might panic a little. Don't worry—formula will result in a rich, deep brunette with beautiful red undertones. You'll get just the right amount of depth from it, and the color won't look too inky or dark. Working with multiple tones when toning down your blonde clients will ease them into the transition, and they won't leave feeling like their hair is one solid dark color.
Formula 1 (Base): Rich Warm Brunette
30mls Tophic® 6NN + 20mls 6GB + 1ml 8kg + equal parts 10-volume developer
Formula 2: Golden Blonde
15mls Tophic® 8G + 5mls 9G + 2mls GG mix + equal parts 10-volume peroxide
Formula 3: Coppered Chocolate Brunette
20mls Tophic® 7KB + 5mls 7 G + 3mls 8kg + 2mls GG mix + equal parts 10-volume peroxide
Formula 4: Warm Brown
10mls Tophic® 7nn + 10mls 7G + 5mls 7B + 2mls 8kg + equal parts 10-volume peroxide
Formula 5: (Toner)
10mls Colorance® 8G + 5mls 8k + 3mls 7g + 2mls GG mix + 40mls Colorance® developer
Going platinum can also be a scary prospect at first, for both you and your client. You'll be balancing your battle with warmth against the battle of trying to maintain the integrity of your client's hair. Getting maximum lift out of the hair and using the right toner are both key. Below you'll find an awesome formula that includes a toner that really works.
Formula 1 (Lightener): TIGI copyright©olour True light + TIGI copyright©olour activator 8.5vol/2.55%.
Formula 2 (Lily White Beige): 58g TIGI copyright©olour gloss 0/02 + TIGI copyright©olour activator 8.5vol/2.55%
Formula 3 (Buff Suede): 30g TIGI copyright©olour gloss 0/02 + 7g TIGI copyright©olour creative 7/23 + TIGI copyright©olour activator 8.5vol/2.55%
That Elusive J-Lo 'Bronde'
Requests for 'bronde' hair color are frequent, but everyone seems to have a different formula. Not quite blonde and not quite brown, it was made famous by ladies like Jennifer Lopez and Jessica Alba. As beautiful as this color is, it can also be tricky to achieve for beginners. You need to find that balance of just enough warm and cool tones without going too warm or too ashy. Below is a great formula to get you started with.
Natural Level: 6 light brown
Existing Level: New growth with existing medium-light to extra light blonde highlights
Target Result: A seamless blend between the hues, achieved by adding lowlights, highlights, and mid-banding with luminescent soft rose tones.
- Formula A (Base Adjust): Matrix SoColor 8AV + 20 volume SoLite Cream Developer
- Formula B (Highlight Retouch): Matrix V-Light De-dusted Lightener + 20-volume SoLite Cream Developer
- Formula C: Matrix Color Sync 9G + 8RB + Color Sync Activator
- Formula D (Lowlights): Matrix Color Sync 7WN + Color Sync Activator
- Formula E (Glaze): Matrix Color Sync SPN + SPV + Color Sync Activator