Ask a Makeup Artist: How Do I Apply Eye Makeup for Hooded Eyes?

rosie huntington whitely hooded eye makeup

@patrickta 

A hooded eye: This may sound a little dark and mysterious, but we assure you it's not. It’s simply an eye shape. Some people have brown eyes; some blue. Some people have almond-shaped eyes, and others have hooded eyes. Just as you change the shadow shades you’re working with based on your eye color, the way you apply your eye makeup depends on eye shape. Since there isn’t a defined crease, hooded eye shapes pose the unique challenge of how and where to add that definition. Enter: Jaleesa Jaikaran who is here to share the ultimate video tutorial for applying makeup for hooded eye shapes.

Brows

"I love these brow pencils from Maybelline," Jaikaran says of the below product. "I like a brow pencil that has a really fine tip because it gives me the precision that I'm looking for." Jaikaran recommends filling in your desired shape using quick, flick motions that will replicate the appearance of natural brow hairs, then using the spooly end to blend and fluff your brows."

maybelline brow pencil
Maybelline Brow Ultra Slim Defining Pencil $7
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Eyeshadow

Jaikaran recommends starting with a gripping eyeshadow primer, like the Nars Pro Prime Smudge-Proof Eyeshadow Base ($26). "You can also use concealer as a primer if you like," she adds.

"Now that we have our primer blended, we're going to go in with eyeshadow," she begins. "I'm going to be using the Anastasia Beverly Hills Norvina Pro Pigment Palette ($60). For me, I always start with a crease color because I really want to give myself a crease to work with. So I'm going to go in with this shade, and buff this into the crease of the eye. With hooded eyes, you tend to not really be able to see what's going on on the lid. So you want to go a little past your natural crease.

"You want to look forward when you're doing eyeshadow for hooded eyes because if you look down or if you do anything else, you're really not going to see the effect when the eyes are open. So try to always look forward." Finish the look off the lid by pressing pigment onto the rest of the lid (not just the crease) using a flat brush, then buff away any harsh lines of indication with a fluffy, dome-shaped eyeshadow brush.

With hooded eye shapes, Jaikaran recommends going back into your crease with more pigment after you've buffed your initial eyeshadow layer. "This is the trick: you really have to create your own crease. If I were to go into my [natural] crease, it's all the way down here and no one is going to see it," she says. "So I'm going to have to fake a crease and carry the color a bit higher."

Finally, add a pop of a lighter, brighter eyeshadow to the inner corners of the eyes, which will help lift the appearance of the lid (hooded eye shapes tend to have the appearance of a "heavier" lid) and open up the eyes.

Eyeliner

"I like to take a really fine-tipped, liquid eyeliner, and you want to look down into a mirror," Jaikaran begins. "I like to use my pinky finger as a little brace. Rest it on top of the cheek bone, and use that to anchor yourself into creating the perfect liner. Jaikaran specifically recommends this Makeup For Ever liner:

makeup for ever graphic liner
Makeup For Ever Graphic Liner $24
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"Now when I'm applying liner, I'm not trying to do everything at the same time. I'm really taking my time, and going as close to the lash line as possible. And if you want, you can create a tiny bit of a wing line. The thing is with hooded eyes and winged liner, is sometimes you might need to create an extra dip in order to see it. So what you can do is create a really small line and connect the tip of that line to the top of your lashes." Then use a cotton round or cotton swab dipped in makeup remover to sharpen up the wing. Clean up under the eyes as well, where eyeshadow fallout may have occurred during application.

Concealer

To sharpen up your eye look, Jaikaran recommends applying concealer under your eyes, just be careful not to smudge your eyeliner or eyeshadow. Blend into the shadowy areas under your eyes, then set your concealer with your favorite setting powder.

If dark circles are a concern for you, try layering a peach-toned color corrector under your favorite concealer to cancel out those purple tones under your eyes.

Mascara

To complete your look, gives your lashes some love with a volumizing mascara. "I'm going to go in with Nars Climax Mascara ($24), and we're going to go to the top and pack as many layers as we can. If you wanted to add a little bit more fun to this look, I would take a tiny bit of loose glitter or glitter eyeshadow and tap it lightly where we have this lighter color on the inner eyes."

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