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Stocksy
Caffeine's skincare benefits are widely known—it helps depuff, illuminate skin, and reduce wrinkles. However, the anti-inflammatory ingredient also offers a host of haircare benefits. Caffeine-infused shampoos, in particular, are on the rise and claim to help stimulate hair growth. But do they actually work?
Meet the Expert
- Philip B. is a celebrity stylist, Hollywood's leading haircare specialist, and the founder of the award-winning Philip B. hair and body products.
- Ava Shamban, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles and the founder of Ava M, Skin Five, and The Box by Dr. Ava.
To fully investigate the hair growth claims, we turned to two hair experts: Dr. Ava Shamban, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, and Philip B., a celebrity hairstylist. Keep reading to learn about the benefits of caffeine shampoos.
Caffeine
Type of ingredient: Naturally occurring stimulant
Main benefits: Boosts circulation to the scalp, increases oxygen and nutrition to the hair follicles, and may help stimulate new hair growth.
Who should use it: In general, anyone with slow, stubborn hair growth or anyone experiencing density loss or breakage.
How often can you use it: It's safe for daily
Works well with: Niacin, Salicylic Acid, and Glycerin
Don’t use with: It does have the potential to cause irritation, so those with sensitive scalps may find they cannot use caffeine shampoos.
Benefits of Caffeine Shampoo for Hair
Caffeine is a naturally occurring central nervous system stimulant most commonly sourced from the coffee bean but can also be found in certain types of tea and cacao beans. Research has shown that when applied topically, caffeine shampoos can permeate the skin and reach the hair bulb, allowing them to influence hair and scalp health. For example, in one study, the application of caffeine shampoo resulted in the penetration of caffeine into both the skin of the scalp and the hair follicles after only two minutes. Most studies involving caffeine products on the scalp are related to hair growth, but most have also found several additional benefits.
- Vasodilating properties: Shampoos that provide topical absorption of caffeine provide vasodilating, or blood vessel-opening, properties to the scalp, says Shamban. However, she does caution that the concentration of caffeine must be low enough to act as a vasodilator, keeping the flow open so as not to stimulate the opposite effect, which is that of a vasoconstrictor, or limiting blood flow. Philip B. adds that massaging the shampoo or treatment with caffeine into the scalp helps to increase blood flow.
- Increases oxygen and nutrition to the hair follicles: Philip B. explains that caffeine shampoo brings oxygen and nutrition to the follicles where the hair bulb grows the keratin protein. "As it permeates the scalp, it helps to boost circulation, which increases the health of both the scalp and follicle. Caffeine is like a workout for our scalp and strands," shares Philip B.
- May help promote new hair growth: Several studies have suggested that caffeine shampoos may help promote hair growth. As it stimulates the hair shaft, it helps to support healthy keratin protein and epithelial cells that stimulate the anagen phase of hair growth, explains Shamban. One study found that caffeine-based topical liquids should not be considered inferior to minoxidil 5% solution (the active ingredient in Rogaine) in men with androgenetic alopecia. Another study suggests this is due to caffeine's ability to counteract DHT, a byproduct of testosterone believed to contribute to hair loss.
- Assists in recovery from UV damage: The scalp and hair are subject to significant UV radiation damage from the sun. One study found that while UV radiation induced hair follicle damage, topical caffeine could help alleviate the effects.
- Boosts overall health and appearance of the hair: Applied topically through shampoo and massaged into the dermis, caffeine helps to stimulate the hair shaft, says Shamban. "Stimulation results in a healthier, more active, and elongated root from which a thicker, stronger hair can grow,'" she explains. Overall, Shamban says that regular application of caffeine to the hair follicles through shampoo, conditioner, or treatment can help hair appearance, density, and elasticity.
Hair Type Considerations
Caffeine shampoo is safe for all hair types, according to our experts. This is because it primarily targets the scalp and hair follicles beneath the skin instead of the hair itself. While almost anyone can benefit from the effects of caffeine shampoo, its stimulating properties can disrupt the skin barrier. Those with sensitive scalps or scalp conditions may want to avoid using caffeine shampoos as they have the potential to exacerbate irritation. As always, a small patch test should be conducted before using any new products to reduce the chance of experiencing irritation.
How to Use Caffeine Shampoo for Hair
Our experts agree that caffeine shampoo is safe for daily use as a part of your regular hair cleansing routine; however, the scalp should be closely monitored for irritation. Shamban and Philip B. recommend actively massaging the shampoo into the skin of the scalp when applying caffeine shampoo. "Massaging the area helps to break through the barrier coating of sebum to allow the caffeine to penetrate and get to work," Philip B. explains. After massaging the shampoo into the scalp, most caffeine shampoos have a recommended amount of time that the product should be left on the scalp to ensure absorption. Be sure to consult the directions and avoid leaving it on longer, as Shamban does caution that too much caffeine can have vasoconstricting effects.
It's also important to read the entire ingredient list, as many caffeine shampoos contain other hair growth-boosting ingredients that you may have a history of irritation with.
The Final Takeaway
Caffeine shampoos are popping up everywhere for a reason—they offer tons of proven hair benefits. Caffeine is a safe ingredient for all hair types and can help promote hair growth, maintains the health of your scalp and hair follicles, and alleviate the effects of UV damage. If you're looking to enhance your wash day routine and stimulate hair growth, add caffeine shampoos to your routine.