Derma-Rolling: the Secret to Flawless Skin

Up close of skin

Rochelle Brock / Refinery29 for Getty Images

 

After finally clearing my skin of acne (thanks to ditching skimmed milk), I realized I wanted to try to get the best complexion of my life. I wanted a treatment that would minimize fine lines and pores, plump the skin, fade pigmentation and soften fine lines. All signs pointed to the dermaroller, a form of collagen induction therapy. It’s a handheld device that resembles a mini concrete roller with needles sticking out of it. To say it wouldn’t look out of place in a torture scene played out on Game of Thrones is about right. But had I read past the skin-boosting promises? No, I hadn’t. I had no idea what I was in for when I visited David Jack, MD, a London-based cosmetic doctor, on Harley Street to try it out for myself. Read on for my honest experience with dermarolling.

What is Dermarolling?

Dermarolling involves using a small device (think: lint-roller but with hundreds of needles on it) to create tiny holes into the face. The process, which can cost anywhere from $100 to $700 per session, helps improve acne scars, even out skin tone, and reduce the look of fine lines. On the day of my appointment, my conversation with Jack went something like this:

“Let’s do the interview first because this is going to hurt,” Jack said shortly after I had sat down in his Harley Street office.

“Oh, erm, isn’t it just going to be like a laser—a bit of stinging and some redness?” I asked tentatively, already reading from his face that no, it was not going to be like that.

“I’ll go get the numbing cream,” he said, already making his way off into the next room. Jack explained that the needles on the roller penetrate all the way down through the epidermis and into the lower layers of the skin, aka the dermal layer. In short, it’s going to hurt. Bad.

“The needles cause injuries in the skin, and what that does is stimulate a response,” he told me. “First you get an inflammatory response, so you’ll go quite red and swollen, then a post-inflammatory response where cells are sent to the area to repair the damage."

Benefits of Dermarolling

Dermarolling hosts a number of skin benefits, from promoting collagen production to strengthening the skin barrier.

  • Stimulates collagen
  • Fades scars
  • Minimizes fine lines
  • Plumps skin
  • Strengthens skin barrier

Needless to say, Jack praises dermarolling: “Collagen production is stimulated, which causes a thickening of the dermis. The skin becomes denser with the laying down of collagen and elastin, and you’ll also notice skin tightening,” explains Jack. While the redness happens immediately, the skin-plumping and fading of scars can take 12 weeks to show up. And for the best results, you’ll want to have three treatments one month apart.

How to Prepare for Dermarolling

For best results, cleanse and exfoliate the skin pre-dermarolling—this will help with better absorption and help prevent infection. Your skin should be makeup-free, and you should avoid doing laser hair removal or waxing within two weeks of dermaolling. Lastly, if you're doing it at home, ensure a cleanly environment: sanitize the derma roller before using and the area you're doing it in.

What to Expect During Dermarolling

After I’d asked all my questions and delayed as much as possible, the treatment began. My skin and the two-millimeter roller were sterilized. The device was then rolled over each area of my face 10 excruciating times. Across my cheeks, I was convinced the pins had hit bone. “Do you want me to roll your upper lip?” Jack asked. I declined, remembering how painful the sheer act of threading that area can be. When it came to my forehead—the least fleshy part of my face—I gave in. A vitamin C–rich serum was then applied (if you’re making holes in your face, you may as well fill them with a potent skin-brightening serum, right?).

Afterwards, I thought it would be best not to look at myself in the mirror; instead, I bid a quick farewell after being told to keep my skin clean and not to touch it for the next few days. It felt hot, almost like I’d been sunburnt, and by the lingering glances I received from passersby, it looked like it too. I tried to conceal my face with my long hair, without the hair actually touching the face—not easy. I resorted to walking head down, canceling my afternoon meetings and getting home as quickly as possible.

Good plan, until you realize you’ve left your door keys at home. Luckily, I live near a beauty journalist who would both understand and not laugh when I pitched up at her front door for a cuppa. By then, the redness had subsided a bit, and come evening, I looked normal if a little red. I’d spoken to my boyfriend on the phone mid–lost key debacle, and he was horrified that I had done such a thing to myself, so the fact that I no longer resembled Freddy Krueger when I finally pitched up home that evening helped my cause.

At-Home vs. By a Professional

Once my skin had fully recovered from the in-office treatment, I embarked on my at-home roller regimen using the Stacked Skincare Microneedling Face Refining Tool Derma Roller ($125). But could I really expect to see the same results from 0.2-millimeter pins when Jack had used two-millimeter needles? Yes and no. The at-home version is much more superficial. In short, it will help your skin look more glowing and will allow your skincare to reach a little deeper, helping that pricey serum do its job more effectively, which is no bad thing. Generally speaking, “Derma-rolling at home can stimulate the epidermis and help with the penetration and absorption of products,” explains Natali Kelly, nurse prescriber and skin therapist at Omniya in London.

Remember, even though they are tiny, they are still needles, so if you opt to do it at home, shop smart. “Only buy genuine derma-rollers with a CE mark for safety, ideally stainless steel or titanium; beware of cheap rollers, as needle lengths, materials, and sterility are not guaranteed,” warns Kelly.

Here's how at-home dermarolling works: After cleansing my face, I used a sterilizing solution to clean the derma-roller. I then moved from section to section, rolling the face in different directions. You can definitely feel the pins, but it doesn’t hurt. I then applied my usual SkinCeuticals' Serum 10 ($70) and followed with my SkinCeuticals' Retinol 0.3 ($67).

If you have a sensitivity to retinol, it is best to roll your skin on the nights when you’re not using your retinol products.

Side Effects

With at-home dermarolling, I noticed a slight tingling and redness, so it’s best done at night. Come morning, my skin was back to normal, although it did appear slightly plumper than before. When it comes to frequency of use, Alison Wait, Medik8 education manager, explains, “The home device can be used daily or at least a minimum of three times a week to see real results. It can be used to effectively treat all parts of the body including the back of hands, face, neck and décolletage, and pockets of cellulite or stretch marks.”

Aftercare

When it comes to the topicals you choose post-dermarolling, there are some guidelines. “I would advise using cosmeceutical serums, to ensure high levels of active ingredients. These often also don’t have parabens that could cause extra irritation to the skin, increasing side effects after rolling,” explains Kelly.

“Look to serums with vitamin C, an antioxidant, as it can stimulate collagen synthesis and is a natural skin lightener for sun-damaged skin. Hyaluronic acid is your skin’s natural humectant, so add this in if your skin feels dry and sensitive. Retinols are great to apply afterward for anti-aging properties, collagen stimulation, and to speed up the skin-cell turnover. It is also brilliant at controlling oil and breakouts,” explains Kelly.

The Final Takeaway

Six weeks later, my skin has never looked better. Jack recommended that for best results, you should have three professional treatments about a month apart, and I am definitely booking my next two sessions pronto. Yes, at the time it wasn’t fun, but I can barely remember the pain, and the results are well worth it. My skin these days is brighter and more even in tone, and I can only imagine what it will be like after more treatments. I no longer need to trowel on the full-coverage foundation; instead, I wear the La Mer The Reparative Skin Tint ($95). My skin looks plumper and dewier, and my pores are less visible.

As for the at-home derma-rolling, I do it a couple of times a week, but I really want to get into the habit of doing it daily (it’s worth it). Creating those small micro-channels in the skin definitely helps with the absorption of skincare, and when serums are pricey, you want to make sure they are working optimally—it’s a no-brainer. On the days after I’ve used the device, my skin always looks healthier, brighter and glowing; it’s incredible, really. Do I think I would have had such great results with at-home derma-rolling alone? Perhaps not, but the professional version is not for the fainthearted, so start with the at-home kit and work your way up.

Shop At-Home Dermarolling Products

Now that you know how to use a dermaroller, here are some of our favorite at-home dermaroller picks.

Stacked Skincare Microneedling Face Refining Tool Derma Roller
Stacked Skincare Microneedling Face Refining Tool Derma Roller $125
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This is my go-to everyday derma-roller. It features an ergonomic handle that makes you feel like a pro, and actually delivers results.

Beauty Bioscience GloPRO Microneedling Roller Tool
Beauty Bioscience GloPRO Microneedling Roller Tool $199
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More pricey, yes, but it vibrates to numb pain and shines red LED light onto the skin as you roll, which has been proven to help with skin aging.

iS Clinical Active Serum
IS Clinical Active Serum $138
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If you are spot-prone, this serum will work wonders to calm inflamed skin and stave off spots.

Lixir Night Switch Retinol 1%
Lixir Night Switch Retinol 1% $42
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Retinol is the gold standard in anti-aging—it helps with everything from skin tone and texture to revving up collagen and elastin production.

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