Rules to Follow When Coloring Dry, Chemically Treated, or Curly Hair

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updated Apr 22, 2019

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Natural Hair Expert

Textured Hair — PeopleImages/ Getty Images

You'll need to take extra care when working with dry, chemically-treated, or curly hair as it tends to be more fragile and prone to breakage. So, no hair service is every one-size-fits all. Based on your tools, products, and their expectations, you have to come up with the best plan for them, as well as the health of their hair. Read below and learn the most important rules to follow when coloring your client's specific hair.

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Conduct a Thorough Consultation

Young blonde woman with comb running through hair — Johnny Hernandez/The Image Bank/Getty Images

You can't always tell a client's hair is weak just by looking at it. Make sure to ask your clients about the last time they had a color or chemical service and take the time to consult with your client about their desired results. You can't take someone who is a level 4 with super curly, dry hair to platinum blonde. Get a good idea of your client's expectations before you start the service.

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Do Not Mix Chemicals and Color on the Same Day

You never want to color hair on the same day that you do a relaxer or other chemical service, no matter what anyone or any manufacturer tells you. Color and relaxer services should be performed at least two weeks apart.

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Never Mix Relaxers With Vegetable or Metallic Dyes

Unless you want to see your client's hair melt right before your eyes, never use metallic or vegetable dyes on relaxed hair and vice versa. Lead acetate is the culprit found in metallic dyes and it's incompatible with the hydroxides that are found in relaxers. When it comes to henna, a vegetable dye, this color is absorbed into the cortex which blocks the performance of a relaxer.

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Opt for Cream Color

Cream hair color formulas are your best bet when working with dry or processed hair. The cream adheres to dry hair more easily than liquid versions and you'll get better coverage overall. Cream color also tends to be less drying than liquid formulas.

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Avoid 40 Volume

Limit the use of developer that is over 10 or 20 volume on dry, curly, or chemically-treated hair. Over use of higher volumes of developer can easily cause breakage and damage.

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Avoid Bleaching Textured Hair

It's a good idea to stay away from lifting curly or damage-prone hair more than a few levels. If your client is a level 7, it's fine to take them to a level 9 but if you have a level 3 in your chair who wants to go platinum, make sure to warn them that they'll also be receiving a chemical cut with their color service that day.

Avoid using bleach on drier hair as much as possible. Using a high-lift cream tint is a much gentler option.

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Top It off With Moisture

It never hurts put moisture back into curly hair after a chemical or color service. Suggest a protein or moisture treatment to your client, which will help the hair to retain and maintain the color.