I often joke that I was emotionally scarred for life when I had the majority of my hair bleached off my head years ago, but to be honest, I’m not entirely kidding. In the days and weeks afterward, I was so distraught, embarrassed, and just plain crushed, I almost wasn’t able to get out of bed in the morning. But, here we are. It’s been years since “the bleach apocalypse of 2013,” and it's been a while since I detailed the experience while freelancing for Byrdie. Which begs the questions: Why am I still talking about it? As I happily reported in my initial article, I’ve slowly but surely nursed my hair back to health and I haven’t had a harrowing salon session since. Yet to this day, I still have some aesthetic response symptoms from the ordeal (yes, still), and I receive DM’s and Facebook messages on a daily basis from people who have read my story and are in the exact panic-stricken position I was years ago.
Having access to some of the best products, treatments, and colorists in the business, I thought a sequel was in order: The comprehensive tip and product sheet I wish I had six years ago—and an update on my current hair situation.
So naturally, I booked an appointment with celebrity colorist Tabitha Dueñas (aka my colorist soulmate I met years ago when I was an intern at Byrdie) at West Hollywood’s Nine Zero One Salon, which caters to blonde beauties such as Julianne Hough and Emma Roberts—ironically, the same women who served as my inspiration pre-bleach apocalypse. And since Dueñas has successfully gifted me with the Julianne Hough–esque baby blonde strands of my dreams (sans any damage), who better to ask advice? Ahead are the exact products, tips, and treatment schedules to take care of blonde hair—whether you’re just hoping to maintain your blonde hair’s integrity or you’re trying to bring it back from the dead post-apocalypse.
Below, check out some expert-approved tips that can help revive bleached hair.
Meet the Expert
Tabitha Dueñas is a celebrity colorist based in Los Angeles, California. With over a decade of experience, she has worked many New York Fashion Week shows and has been recognized by Allure.
Alternate Your Shampoo and Conditioner
When it comes to recovering or maintaining the integrity of blonde hair, finding a happy and healthy medium between protein and moisture is the name of the game. It’s what I relied on back in 2013, and if you took a peek into my current shower situation, you’d see it’s still my M.O.
“Alternating between moisture and protein—and not overdosing on either—is the most important thing when it comes to caring for blonde hair no matter how long it’s been since your last appointment or how severe any damage is,” Dueñas explained to me as I sat in her chair. “I also personally recommend finding shampoos and conditioners that are free of sulfates, which can eventually strip and dry out the hair. The ultimate shampoo ritual will be alternating between a sulfate-free, protein-rich formula and a sulfate-free, moisture-rich formula.”
To meet my hydration needs, I’ve been using Verb’s Hydrating Shampoo ($18) and Conditioner ($18) for a few months now, and I can honestly say it’s the best I’ve tried when it comes to delivering the nourishment and hydration my bleached strands crave without the heavily coated, limp feel of so many other shampoos and conditioners. I still think Bumble and Bumble’s Creme de Coco ($27) is great if you’re in dire need of moisture (as I was back in 2013), but after using it for a few months and restoring the moisture levels to my strands, it became too intense of a formula for my fine texture. This option from Verb is a happy medium and is also paraben- and sulfate-free (which saves your hair in the long run). And if you’re willing to make a bit of a splurge, Dueñas also recommends Oribe’s Shampoo for Beautiful Color ($46) for maximum moisture.
For maximum recovery, Dueñas likes Joico’s K-Pak duo, which specifically targets the damaged areas within the hair cuticle to replenish lost elasticity, strength, and shine. Plus, it boasts an all-star ingredient list of antioxidants, peptides, keratin silicone, vitamin E, and aloe vera.
Use Purple Shampoo
Not only is it hard to keep blonde hair healthy, but it’s also difficult to stave off that almost-inevitable brassiness. If you’re on major damage control, a purple shampoo isn’t a must, but if your blonde hair is on the healthier side and you’re looking to maintain the tone as much as possible post-salon visit, consider adding a purple shampoo to the mix.
But be careful of adding too much. “Purple shampoo can actually change the color of your blonde if you use it too often or too soon after your color session since the hair will be especially porous and absorbent. If you only wash your hair a couple of times a week, I recommend waiting two weeks before incorporating a purple shampoo to preserve your tone. Then only use it every few washes,” notes Dueñas.
Having tried and tested a large portion of the purple shampoos and conditioners on the market, I come back to R+Co’s Sunset Blvd Blonde Shampoo ($29) again and again. Not only does it have a light, silvery lavender color (instead of something similar to Grape Koolaid), but it also features a shine-enhancing coconut cleanser, which keeps locks glossy and soft. Unite’s Blonda Shampoo ($29) is another great approved-by-Dueñas option.
Load Up On Treatments
In my previous article, I mentioned going into the salon and getting both moisturizing and protein treatments. I still think this can be a helpful step following a damaging color process, but as Dueñas points out, at-home treatments and masks are so high quality these days that going into the salon might not be completely necessary.
Instead, she recommends asking your stylist to use Olaplex during the color process (No. 1 and No. 2 are done in-salon and help rebuild and reverse damage and breakage as your hair sits) and picking up a bottle of No. 3 ($28) to take home with you.
Since Olaplex isn’t technically a protein-rich product (it involves a unique patented ingredient that is meant to penetrate on a molecular level), you can’t necessarily overdo it.
That being said, Dueñas points out that after a certain point, it’s not really doing much for your hair anymore. (In other words, no need to sleep in the stuff or leave it in all day). Simply apply it to damp, towel-dried hair, gently brush it through using a wide-tooth comb, and then let it marinate for about 20 to 60 minutes before shampooing and conditioning as you would normally. Once a week or even biweekly is the perfect antidote.
Don't Overdo the Bleach
“Overlapping the bleach is the most common reason for disastrous damage,” says Dueñas. And apparently, this was likely the main culprit behind my previous bleaching disaster. (The stylist had applied bleach over my entire head right after a full highlight the same day). However, Dueñas also shares the importance of minding your hairline (where we have super-fine hairs) and being mindful of how long color is sitting on each section of the hair.
In addition to the Olaplex treatment, Dueñas also stresses the importance of incorporating a high-quality mask into your haircare regimen. Again, you never want to overdo it with these types of products, but they can make a big difference in maintaining the integrity of your hair. To achieve salon-like results at home, she recommends applying your mask to damp, freshly shampooed hair, combing it through to ensure even dispersal, and then throwing a shower cap over it for about 20 minutes. In addition to using the No. 3 Olaplex once every week or two before you shampoo, Dueñas suggests alternating between a protein and moisture mask in lieu of your normal conditioner. After a few months, you can wean yourself off the protein pick (Davines' Hair Building Pack, $39) has been a personal lifesaver) and stick to just using the moisturizing option (Dueñas likes L’Oréal Professionnel's Liss Unlimited Smoothing Mask, $35) once every few washes.
Don't Skip Haircuts
Though Dueñas says you can probably skip coming to the salon for a treatment, she doesn’t recommend skipping a cut. In fact, she tells me that losing some length is one of the only things you can really do to help salvage the hair—especially after a harsh color treatment. Her rule of thumb: Get a cut or trim immediately (or at least within a week) after getting your hair colored to seal the ends. Then make it a habit to come in about every eight weeks or so afterward.
“An analogy I always use about hair is that it’s like a rope. Once the ends have been torn or damaged, they’ll start to unravel. The same goes for your hair—once your ends are compromised, that damage will continue to work its way up the strand, and there’s really no product or remedy that can truly seal that. A cut is the only option.”
Style With Care
This one might not come as a surprise, but it’s important nonetheless—be mindful of your ponytail habit. Not only can pulling a ponytail too tight (or wearing one to bed) cause breakage around the hairline, but it can also weaken the section of the hair secured with the tie.
Use Multi-Tasking Formulas
When it comes to caring for damaged hair, a simple styling strategy will ultimately be in your hair’s best interest. Therefore, finding quality products that can kill two (or three or four) birds with one stone is key. To keep it simple, and damaged hair happy, Dueñas recommends using Unite’s 7Seconds Detangler ($30). (She first recommended the product to me when I came to her a couple of years ago and I’ve been hooked on the stuff ever since. It’s become my new go-to leave-in spray for optimal hair health.)
“It does everything,” Dueñas says. “It gives shine, it detangles, it’s a heat protectant, and yet it’s lightweight enough so that it’s pretty impossible to overdo it. You can be quite liberal with it and it’s one of the best things you can put in your hair.”
Apply Hair Oil
The only other product Dueñas really recommends as you nurse your bleached hair back to health? A high-quality *clear* oil like Paul Mitchell's Rare Oil Treatment Light ($43). Unlike other oils like argan (which can be tinged yellow and might stain bleached hair), Dueñas tells me that marula oil has the unique capability of penetrating deep into the hair’s cuticle for ultimate healing and repair. So in addition to spritzing in a do-it-all leave-in like Unite’s, Dueñas also suggests running two to three drops of oil through damp ends post-wash and pre-style, as well.
Although my colorist back in 2013 should never (and I mean never) have bleached right on top of my highlights, I still partly take the blame. I had been getting my hair highlighted for long enough that I knew how damaging and irreversible the consequences could be, and yet I let my impatience get the better of me. I wanted a fix right then, and the colorist picked up on that panic. Which led to her panic, which then led to a whole lot of inappropriately applied bleach, which ultimately led to the mother of all panic: horribly damaged hair. (So not worth it.)
“If you have just received a lightening service and you’re not happy with the color or something needs to be adjusted, it’s best to wait at least a couple of weeks so that your hair can get a break—you just can’t highlight your hair so close together in time. Instead, wait it out and then go back and see what the options are for color adjustment without using bleach. There are plenty of ammonia-free options that can brighten or change the tone,” says Dueñas.
After you’ve gotten your hair back to a healthy place, aim to alternate full and partial highlights with six to eight weeks in between.
Use a Shower Filter
Sorry, but if you have blonde hair, water can be the most frustrating of enemies, thanks to grime, minerals, and chemicals that might expedite brassiness, dehydration, and breakage. So, after a colorist in my college hometown recommended using a filter in my shower (more than once) to preserve my hair’s color and integrity, I made the leap and have been a believer in the investment ever since. Nine Zero One has an amazing option called the Raindrops Luxe ($120), which boasts a thorough, six-step filtration system and an easy-breezy setup.
Sleep On a Silk Pillowcase
In all honesty, I didn’t believe the hype of a silk pillowcase until I tried it. Yes, this Slip Silk Pillowcase ($89) is an investment, but it’s a worthy one where your hair is concerned, especially if you have super-lightened strands. Made from the highest-grade mulberry silk, this kind of pillowcase wins out over cotton cases of hair nightmares past, as it lets your hair slip and slide over the case instead of stretching, pulling, and breaking. Not only do my blowouts last longer since making the switch, but I’ve noticed significantly fewer broken-off hairs around my hairline.