What are your secrets? That's the question I get asked most often as a professional makeup artist. People always want me to tell them something groundbreaking—something that will shake up their whole routine and help them have that "aha" moment. While I can’t promise anything game-changing, I have put together a list of some everyday tips that most makeup artists keep on hand.
Employ an Ice Roller
Chances are, you’ve heard of putting cold spoons over your eyes to alleviate puffiness. But sometimes you wake up and your entire face is puffy (long night?). There’s a solution for that—ice rollers. Using an ice roller before applying any product to your face will instantly firm and tighten the skin, creating the perfect surface for application. Ice rollers can also alleviate irritation from peels and abrasive products if you find yourself in need of relief.
Shave Your Face
Do you know what else creates the perfect surface for product application? Smooth, hairless skin. That’s right—shaving your face could make that slight difference you’ve been looking for. Dermatologists call it “dermaplaning” and it can be done at home every so often to really offer that flawless finish for foundation.
Customize Your Foundation
Does your favorite foundation provide too much coverage, yet your tinted moisturizer doesn’t offer enough? Try adding a bit of facial moisturizer, drop by drop, to your foundation. By diluting the mixture, you can custom create the perfect amount of coverage for your preference (with the added bonus of hydration). The brand Cover FX has capitalized on this foolproof makeup artist trick with its product Custom Cover Drops ($29). You can save yourself a lot of product while customizing your coverage by adding the drops to anything emollient (moisturizer, primer, or pre-existing foundation).
DIY Your Glow
To amp up your glow without the addition of a fancy primer, mix a liquid or powder highlighter into your foundation. The iridescence will create a dewy finish with minimum effort and product. If you have a shimmery, natural-colored eye shadow lying around, mixing that in will work just as well.
Switch Your Blush Order
For that radiant and natural lit-from-within flush, try applying cream blush before foundation or tinted moisturizer. The application of foundation on top of the blush diffuses the makeup look and creates the illusion that the color is coming from your skin. It’s the perfect way to seem beautifully and naturally flush.
Brush Your Brow Down
The best way to fill in your brows is to brush them down first. You can then fill in the upper edge or line of the brow with your favorite product, following the natural growth of hair and exaggerating where need be. Then brush your brows back up and continue to fill. Don’t fill up past the upper line you’ve created. When brushed out, the natural hairs will cover the upper line, retaining the shape while looking as natural as possible.
Bronze Your Halo
To create dimension, always finish your routine by dusting bronzer on what I call the halo of your face. Bronze your temples, rim of your forehead, hollows of cheeks and jawline to build depth and liveliness in your look. This is the perfect technique to really awaken and round out your look.
Skip the HD Powders
Never use HD powders or products containing a lot of silica to finish or set your foundations. These products were created specifically for film. The ingredients in these products can reflect light (specifically a bright flash in a dark room or at night) and create the illusion of thick white powder on your skin. It’s the “amateur” move that even a lot of professionals have mistakenly made.
If you’ve finished your face and you find yourself looking a bit too made up (or cakey), try spraying a finishing spray like MAC Prep + Prime Fix+ ($28) lightly over your face. The spray penetrates the foundation and helps to create a skin mimicking look. Basically, your skin will look more like skin and less like makeup. I use this technique often while creating the no-makeup makeup look. Plus, your face may stay in place a bit longer, as an added bonus.
If you’re out and about and find yourself a bit too shiny, grab a toilet seat cover and dab your T-zone. You don’t always need to have expensive oil blotters on hand. As long as there’s a bathroom in reach, consider yourself mattified.
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