“It took me 24 years to make this country obsessed with eyebrows,” Anastasia Soare told us. That may seem like a bold claim—Brooke Shields and Cara Delevingne have done their fair share for arches—but it might not be too far from the truth.
Soare, the owner and mastermind behind Anastasia Beverly Hills brow products and a chain of brow bars inside Nordstrom stores across the country, was one of the first celebrity estheticians to focus solely on eyebrows. She shapes the arches of Penelope Cruz, Oprah, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Madonna, Sharon Stone, and Naomi Campbell, and more, and has developed some of the best-selling brow products in the market.
We sat down with Soare to uncover her best tips for fuller, more flattering arches, from the right way to apply the products, to the best route to plucking at home.
Click through our slideshow for all her eyebrow tips and tricks!
“Eyebrows are the most challenging part of the face because you have to think about your skin tone, the color of your eyebrows, and your hair color,” Soare told us about choosing a product. “The biggest brow mistake I see people make is picking a color that’s too dark.”
The trick to finding the right hue? “If you have light eyebrows, go one shade darker than your hair, and if you have dark eyebrows, you go one shade lighter.” Then, pick the correct undertone. “If you have a cool undertone, you should use a product with an ashy color,” Soare told us.
“If you have a warm undertone, you should do with something more golden.”
The order that you apply your brow products is very important, since wax, gel, powder, and pencils all build on each other. Soare suggests the following order if you plan on cocktailing your products: pencil, pomade, powder, wax, then gel. (If you only use two of these, just start with whichever is listed first.)
Want fuller brows? Soare suggests letting your arches grow for three or four full months. “If the hairs don’t grow after that, they probably won’t,” she says. Her suggestions? “Latisse works really well on your eyebrows.”
“Shaping eyebrows is not as simple as you may think,” Soare says. “You don’t drill your own teeth, you go to a dentist. I suggest that everyone goes to a person to have their brows shaped properly at least once, then you can maintain what they did.” Experience is important, but the method of hair removal (tweezing, waxing, threading) makes no difference, she says.
An eyebrow stencil may seem scary, but they’re actually designed to help you groom your brows, not color them in. “Many people start tweezing one brow, the try to match the other. That’s how you end up over-plucking,” she says. Instead, use a stencil to decide where your brow should start and where your arch should hit, then use that to guide you when cleaning up stray hairs.
No matter which product you pick, Soare suggests starting in the middle of your brow. Concentrate the color in the center and fill in your arches moving out, then come back and gently shade the inside third. (Shading too heavily anywhere, especially the middle, can make you look angry or older.)
Trends come and go, but Soare suggests sticking to the brow shape that looks good on you, not what’s in style. “This season brows are thick, next season they may be thin,” Soare says. “It’s not like a haircut; if you start tweezing a lot they won’t grow back.” Instead, try a new color for a new season. Going dark with a pencil, or light with a brow gel is a better way to experiment.